Wonderful Solidarity and Water Mountains in Ranau

The different Mount Kinabalu

Last Monday and Tuesday there was very severe rain that particularly affected the Kundasang and Ranau area creating the most frightening landslides and flooding; sweeping away houses and a huge amount of trees. The result being that the reservoir in Ranau was full of trees, the water polluted and the water supply for the area was cut off. There seemed to be no timeframe as to when the situation would be resolved so both mentors from the area were evacuated to KK .The seeming lack of action being taken by the government in supplying water for the people in the area brought about an appeal made by the priest in Ranau, Nicolas Stevens, on Facebook for people to send water up. I don't suppose he ever imagined such a response and action from the people of Sabah but my goodness have  they showed their solidarity, generosity and care for their fellow Sabahans.



   On Saturday morning I filled my car up with boxes of water , which I might say are hard to come by now in Tuaran as they have been sold out, and made my way up to Ranau to volunteer to help my dear Sister Caroline, who has been working eighteen hours a day at the water depot/ St Peter's Church. The church is attached to St Benedict Mission School that I worked at, so it was familiar territory although I must say I wasn't expecting the sight that I came to. The whole journey up the mountain there was a trail of vans, lorries, 4x4s and cars full of water and this went on all day and I expect is still continuing today.


The church has been converted into a water depot but the organisation and the smooth way in which it was all being onloaded and distributed was quite astounding. There seemed to be three areas A,B,C where you collected your water and you had to register at the desk, tell how many people were in your household, (babies entitled you for an extra box) and then take your ticket to the depot A,B,or C. Meanwhile some people were directing a one way traffic system where cars, lorries and vans were directed to a depot to unload and then the unloading was done efficiently and swiftly with volunteers. This has been going on from 7 in the morning until 11 pm for days but I believe finally the water is beginning to be connected again. I know that people and NGOs have been working 24 hour days in order to try and get the water connected too.



   So my very little contribution was quite humbling seeing the size of the operation. I was put on to making tickets for the water distribution which involved stamping and cutting and then later I was allowed on the table to write down the quota per ticket! There were equally as many Muslims as Christians coming for the water which was again humbling to see as apparently there had been a refusal of water to Muslims in other places as it was the beginning of Ramadan on Wednesday. There was food laid on for the volunteers too and of course I managed to have a chat with Sister Caroline which was lovely as she has been on a course in Indonesia for three months. I left after about four hours and made my way back down the mountain but one thing that Sister Caroline and I both remarked on was how different Mount Kinabalu is since the earthquake and landslides. She looks bare and full of huge scars from all the landslides. The sun was shining and she looked like a huge bare lump of rock with no greenery at all. I know in the grand scale of things this is just a comma in the huge long book of a mountain but I did find it strange and kept taking photographs again!

The Earthquake on Mount Kinabalu

    Andrew and I went over to England last week to visit his mother and it was on Friday when we went down to Starbucks to get some wifi and catch up on emails that I suddenly saw lots of messages sent from Sabah! An earthquake had struck Ranau at 7.15 am 5th June at 6.0 magnitude and there were landslides on Mount Kinabalu! My first thought was that I knew someone climbing the mountain but fortunately for her it was the day before. I had to contact all my mentors just to check that no one had been up the mountain and mercifully most of them were off the island when it happened. However as you may know there were eighteen people died up the mountain, four guides and two, Singaporeans that were only confirmed dead yesterday. I have been in contact with many of my teachers and friends around Ranau and it seems that there is some structural damage and cracks in some schools, the mosque and the hospital but nothing major as most of the buildings are low. It is interesting people's perspectives who are used to earthquakes, like New Zealanders and Indonesians, told me that it wasn't more than just a few seconds of the houses shaking whereas other people who had never lived through one found it very scary. A very long time ago I lived through one in Afghanistan but it was over before I realised what was happening.

Sunrise at the top of the world 2012

  Anyway as with all natural disasters there is discussion and controversy and sadly the earthquake managed to get on the BBC news not because of the tragic deaths but simply because of the stupid insensitive actions of some tourists who decided it would be amusing to take their clothes off. I noticed that my post on my blog called Aki Nabalu has been looked at a lot since the earthquake which explains the significance of the mountain to the people. Mount Kinabalu is considered by the Dusun people to be sacred and where the souls of people go to rest when they die. There is a war memorial in Kundasang facing the mountain for all the prisoners of war who lost their lives in the Death March in 1945 and this is explained at the memorial and to the climbers of the mountain before they ascend the majestic mount.

Throughout the colonial period conquerors usually have managed to ignore the local people's beliefs and feelings which is exactly what the British Hugh Low did when he climbed to the top of Mount Kinabalu in 1851. To appease the disruption of the dead souls it was agreed that a sacrifice of a white cockerel I believe, was made before each climb and this is still adhered to but reduced to once a year now. There are very few people here now that are animists but in times of tragedy we all look for something or someone to blame and I haven't heard anyone honestly think that the earthquake was caused by these ignorant tourists but more of an outrage that people would think that it is acceptable human behaviour to do such an insensitive act.

The donkey ears that are broken after the earthquake

I leave you with this quote from the brother of one of the brave guides who lost his life in the earthquake.
"It is not about laws or superstition, but about having mutual respect among human beings. As a Christian, I too do not believe in superstition, but I adhere to the advice and beliefs of the elders out of respect. It is part of being humans, we don't do things that will offend our fellow-human beings whether they are Muslims, Christian or Animists. This is something we are taught here."

"

The Perfect Fairytale Wedding Day

The Kiss

The ceremony

  After the rain on Friday night it was with great joy that we woke up to a lovely blue sky on Saturday morning. The morning passed quickly with all the last minute things to be done. We managed to get a few long extensions as there was a fear that the electricity might blow; the final touches were made to the marquee; I completed all my flower arrangements; added some more flowers to the bride's bouquet; more people arrived and in among the chaos downstairs of people eating and drinking coffee, the bride and her helpers went upstairs and got on with the preparations that one does to brides. Naomi was in charge of the make-up and Catha, a friend from university days was the hairdresser. Compared to my last year panic when I was still making my dress a few minutes before, I was ready before the bride and saw her in her dress for the first time when she walked down the stairs. Tanya looked radiantly beautiful and she really did take my breathe away! Her dress was exquisite and she looked serene and happy. We were all ready to go to the Mairie.

The beautiful bride

  Anthony was waiting at the door of the Mairie along with the mayor and deputy mayor, his parents and everyone else. The ceremony in the mairie was quick, apart from all the signatures but it was lovely and Sebastien, the mayor, said quite a lot in English and was very nice.

The Wright's and Mah's

The beautiful girls!

We all waited outside for the happy married couple, Mr and Mrs Mah, to come out and then they were showered with lavender seeds and rose petals.

Mr and Ms Mah

We all went straight back to the farm and the parking was in the bottom field so everyone had to walk up the lane including the bride and groom! The first part of the afternoon was the vin d'honneur in the front garden where we had cider, poire (with accent!) and canapes.

Hazel and Pascal

The other Mr and Mrs Mah

There were outdoor games to play such as croquet, giant jenga, japanese billiards, giant cards and others and of course lovely piano music played by the local piano teacher in Livarot. It was perfect and a chance for me to catch up on some news with my local friends so lots of chat and not much time for games.

  At 6.30 cocktails were served by the pond area, made by Neil assisted by Naomi. They were Singapore sling and La Normande - a new cocktail created by Neil last year for Lisa and Remi's wedding based on pommeau (apple sherry) mint from the garden and raspberries. The caterers had arrived and served us delicious nibbles to go with the cocktails and after the throwing of the bouquet it was time to go up to the big marquee.

  I wont bore with every detail but it was a typical long french meal, wonderfully served with delicious food and wine. We had an unexpected break halfway organised by Tanya's school friends - The famous "Le Plus Gros mangeur de Livarot Cheese" where the competitors eat as much Livarot cheese as they can inside a certain time. I can proudly say that Patrick won but I think the others were slowing down as time ran out!

Next were the speeches, when Michael the best man warned everyone of the dangers of the Livarot Cheese Factory where love began for Tanya and Anthony five years previously and Anthony spoke his lovely speech in French and English. Before the dancing commenced we had the amazingly delicious gateaux de Jacquis Artois.

  The dancing began about midnight and finished around 6 am I believe. I managed to keep going until about 3.30 am but stupidly stopped for a break and couldn't get going again. Most of the British guests stopped before dawn but the French contingent and some Wright's (including the bride and groom) kept going until dawn. The French tradition is that everyone is invited for lunch the next day so by 9.30 am I was in my pyjamas making some salads to go with the barbeque that Pascal had kindly agreed to do. It poured with rain but it didn't matter as we all were able to go into the marquee and enjoy les sausissons. So that was more or less the end as everyone made their way back to wherever they were going and by the evening we were back to only 10.
The end of a Perfect Fairytale (as someone else called it) Wedding!

Pre-wedding week

Mon beau jardin!

At last I'm back to a computer and have managed to upload the many photographs I have taken over the last couple of weeks. Poor Ranau and Mount Kinabalu have been very much in the news since last Friday's earthquake but I think it best to keep my blog chronologically so I can keep a track of it all - so here we go back in time a couple of weeks!
  My flight and journey to France on 22nd May was fine and I drove back to La Ferme des Vallots with Lisa and Remi and it was with nervous anticipation that we drove up the lane to our farm - not knowing what the garden was going to be like but as  you will see from the photos, it was looking wonderful and the roses were at their best. It was nearly a miracle considering that Andrew nor I had been at home since January but we did have the help of amazing Lucy who has been coming to control and tame the garden, two wonderful house-sitters, Julie and Paul who kept things going in and around the house and of course perfect Pascal who had redone the little bridge. The calm bride and groom, Tanya and Anthony, arrived later on that day and soon the house began to feel like home.


 Compared to Lisa and Remi's wedding last year the preparations seemed less major and there seemed to be more time to get everything ready, socialise and enjoy the garden. The rest of the family arrived from Glasgow and Exeter on Wednesday and I served them all a memorable meal of chicken curry and rice flavoured by maggots (not realising that the rice was older than I thought!!!)

There was much coming and going as there were two small tents to put up and then the large marquee, the port-a-loo, the wine delivery, the sound equipment etc. etc.. I was in charge of the flowers which I really loved except that very little can be done before the actual wedding day hence my scratched and bleeding hands! Patrick had fortunately planted lots of wildflower seeds last year and was rewarded with an abundance of cornflowers in every shade of blues and pinks and there were roses of every colour to pick. Armed with a roll of chicken wire, a few oasis and a pair of secateurs it was a real pleasure with all the lovely flowers out in the garden.

A few of my bouquets

  By Friday evening we were more or less ready and the marquee had been decorated with the beautiful origami cranes that Tanya had been making for months, the tablecloths spread and blackboard menus completed.


I had made a meal for about twenty (minus maggots!) but as the evening wore on more and more people arrived and stayed and we just about fed and watered over thirty people who had mostly arrived from England. It was a lovely evening despite pouring with rain and it was nice to meet some of Tanya and Anthony's friends before the wedding. Just as we said farewell to the wedding crowd, Lisa and Remi arrived from Lille and we were able to celebrate Lisa's birthday with a lovely cake made by Matthew and Gen and a bottle of champagne. We never seem to be short of things to celebrate in our family!!

 Lisa's birthday cake